One Evening in Veli Lošinj
Veli Lošinj is an authentic gem with a tiny U shaped port. At night it fills with locals and tourists, some of which spent the day bike riding along its winding hills, while others spent the day swimming in the quiet coves that dot its coast.
Veli Lošinj is the smaller of the two villages that make up the island of Lošinj. The newer settlement, Mali Lošinj is now bigger than the first and older village. Like many old village plans the town of Veli Lošinj is shaped by the sea and the earth.
The lines of the town radiate outward and around, along agricultural lines. Unlike today’s modern grids, the slopes and the inclines of the land define the architecture and the walkways as well as the roads.
Expect to learn your way around half circles and micro-squares if you visit. Expect to be surprised by little staircases that spring from unexpected turns where the cobblestones underfoot switch between sizes and textures. Expect to feel history under your feet.
Expect to see tiny chapels and sleeping flowers that come alive at night. Be ready to steep yourself in a place that grew up alongside the building of sailing ships. Be ready to see churches built as fortresses against pirates. Become at peace with this place as it offers you clouds and rocks reflecting a tranquil bay.
Something about the mix of modern accessibility and the tiny scale of the port is what makes Veli Lošinj feel out of time.
We went to Veli Lošinj just for an evening this summer. We walked along the roads our ancestors walked. We heard the voices come out of the small church as they sang for evening prayers. We watched the evening turn into dark and then, like all lucky travelers we met up with our hosts who made us a dinner made up of local ingredients.
If you find yourself here for a night, you could easily make it a week. Here you couldn’t be blamed for hiding from the big yachts and the late night clubs that are becoming a hallmark of the Croatian summer.
In Veli Lošinj you could find yourself having a quieter adventure, one that will heal your heart with simple pleasures.
